Published in the July issue of SEA-Globe (Cambodia)
Christianity
is the dominant religion, but a significant part of the population is
Muslim, while a smaller portion is Buddhist. Sunday is the traditional
day of worship, but Catholic churches hold mass everyday.
Jennee Grace U Rubrico
The city of Manila is old. The Philippine capital—which is
one of 16 cities that comprise Metropolitan Manila—has all the
trappings of a modern city, including two light rail transit lines,
malls and a slew of five-star hotels; but its age is indelibly marked
in the centuries-old architecture that is as historically significant
as it is ancient.
Along Espana Avenue stands the University of Santo Tomas, a
Dominican university which was founded in 1611, making it the oldest
university in Asia. Its first campus was in Intramuros, a walled city
built by the Spanish in the 16th century to be the seat of power. When
the school moved to its present location in 1941, it brought some
elements from the original campus, including the main entrance, called
the Arch of the Centuries, which now stands in front of the school’s
main building.
Intramuros, the city’s oldest district
and the address of choice during the Spanish occupation, now teems with
commercial establishments, but heritage advocates can take comfort in
the preservation of Fort Santiago, which served as the prison of
national hero Dr. Jose Rizal prior to his death by firing squad in
nearby Luneta park—then Bagumbayan—in 1896. The cobblestone paths have
also been retained. Old catholic churches such as the Manila Cathedral,
which has been restored six times since its construction in 1581, and
the San Agustin Church, which was completed in 1607 and claims to be
the country’s oldest church still standing, are still sprinkled around
the area, providing a palpable connection between then and now.
Outside Intramuros is Binondo, the city’s Chinatown. The
enclave was created by the Spanish to keep the Chinese immigrants out
of the walled city. But since its notorious beginnings, it has been
transformed into a business and financial powerhouse as well as a
cultural hotspot. Iron-grilled bank headquarters stand alongside
restaurants and shops in this tourist spot that is also known for
having the best hopia (bean pastry) in the country.
Manila is the country’s political centre,
with the stately Malacanan Palace, the official residence of the
president, standing on the banks of the river Pasig. The city, however,
has been showing signs of deteriorating health—heavy pollution hangs
in the air and the river, praised for its beauty in Philippine
literature, is dying.
Perhaps these, like the dilapidated Spanish-style houses
that line the streets, are also signs of its age. But Manila’s old
world charm continues to beguile with the undeniable traces of its
glory days.
How to get there
The
city of Manila’s 1.6 million people get around in all kinds of public
transport. Besides the Light Rail Transit (LRT) 1 which covers the
north-south line and the LRT 2 which covers the east-west route, there
are hordes of buses and jeepneys that go to the city from various
points. Taking the public transport can be quite an experience—jeepneys
are not airconditioned and a short seven Philippine pesos (about 15
cents) ride can be enough to assault one’s sense of smell. Be sure to
leave the jewelry in the hotel safe—and put the wallet in a place that’s
difficult to reach— when trying the public transport system or walking
around the city.
Taxicabs cost more than other modes of transport, but with
a flag down rate of Php30 (less than $1), taxi fares in Manila are a
lot cheaper than those of other Asian cities. Cabs are the most
comfortable option, but beware cab drivers who overprice foreigners,
and make sure that the taximeter has been turned on. Better yet, take
the cabs that queue at the hotel driveway—it’s the safest way to get
around, the flag down rate is the same, and they’re more likely to
charge according to the meter.
If you’re lucky, a calesa (hose-drawn carriage) might be
around to give you a lift in some tourist areas, but prepare to pay a
relatively hefty tourist’s price for the service.
The Ninoy Aquino International Airport (manila-airport.net)
is only 12 km away, with travel taking anywhere from 20 minutes to an
hour, depending on traffic. It’s always best to give a lot of leeway
for the travel to the airport — flights have been missed because of a
little rain or road mishap.
Recharge the batteries
From
luxury hotels to lodging houses, Manila has them all. The best way to
choose the best accommodation for one’s budget is to go online, as most
of the hotels and pension houses have an online presence and many have
an online booking facility. The hotels are clustered along Ermita and an cost anywhere from $70 a night. Sofitel Philippine Plaza (sofitel.com/Philippines),
on the fringes of Manila, is a luxury hotel with a resort setting and
spectacular views of the Manila Bay sunset. Room rates start at $350
per night, and amenities include spa facilities, fitness centers and
swimming pools.
Backpackers can have their pick of accommodations in the
Malate area, which becomes the happening place after sunset, with its
rows of restaurants and bars. Friendly’s Guesthouse (friendlysguesthouse.com) offers beds at less than $10, inclusive of a closet space, and use of the common area.
Best sightseeing
Catch
the Manila Bay sunset: photographers flock to capture it, and lovers
go to witness it. Take a leisurely stroll by the bay at around 5.30pm
to see the spectacular sunset in its entirety. Walk to Malate for
dinner or a nightcap afterwards, or go to the Cultural Center of the
Philippines to catch a stage play. If you're lucky, multi-awarded
international star Lea Salonga might be in one. Mall rats can go to any
of the nearby malls – SM Mall of Asia is the world’s third largest –
to shop, dine, watch an IMAX movie, or ice skate.
History buffs can take a walking tour of Intramuros. The most popular is one organized by Carlos Celdran (celdrantours.blogspot.com).
Slap on some sunblock, wear comfortable shoes and bring lots of water —
and an umbrella — for the three-hour journey to the past. If pounding
the cobblestone pavement for a lesson in history proves to be too much,
the National Museum of the Filipino People is open daily except on
Mondays.
Sense and sensitivities
Christianity
is the dominant religion, but a significant part of the population is
Muslim, while a smaller portion is Buddhist. Sunday is the traditional
day of worship, but Catholic churches hold mass everyday.
Filipinos are generally a hospitable and friendly people.
Practices are heavily influenced by American culture and most people
can understand and speak English. English greetings and expressions
like “Hello,” and “Thank you” are commonly used, and a handshake is a
generally acceptable gesture.
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