Thursday, 15 May 2014

Villa Escudero: Glamorizing country life (BusinessWorld

Written for BusinessWorld Weekender, published May 16, 2014. Click here for original article


Travel & Tourism
Posted on 06:18 PM, May 15, 2014

Text and Photos By Jennee Grace U. Rubrico

Villa Escudero: Glamorizing country life

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IT IS a place where buffalo rides are comfortable, feasts are held beside a child-friendly waterfall, and guests can dip their feet in a stream on a hot day without worrying about getting bitten by mosquitoes or other bugs.
(from top)LABASIN LAKE, where guests can go bamboo rafting; the facade of the AERA Museum, which is built to look like a church and Who’s Sexy, the cart or the carabao? One of the buffalo-pulled carts used in Villa Escudero to transport guests.
(from top)LABASIN LAKE, where guests can go bamboo rafting; the facade of the AERA Museum, which is built to look like a church and Who’s Sexy, the cart or the carabao? One of the buffalo-pulled carts used in Villa Escudero to transport guests.
Villa Escudero Plantations and Resort, a tourist destination south of Manila, gets up to 1,000 visitors a day during peak season for glamorizing country living.

The lack of gilded gates to announce the property’s presence sets the stage for the Villa Escudero show, the easy-to-miss wooden sign by the highway that points to the dusty road leading to the plantation drawing guests deeper into the charade.

In Villa Escudero, the “carabao ride” does away with the leathery-hide-against-seat-of-the-pants experience in favor of the classier and infinitely more pleasant roofed-cart-with-cushioned-seats variety.

It sprinkles a dash of romance into the frenzy of the barrio fiesta by moving the festivities out of the house and into an aquatic setting. Visitors set plates laden with Filipino food down on tables which rise from a pool filled with ankle-deep water that is cool to the feet and teeming with fish small enough to delight toddlers. The man-made waterfall that children bathe in and lovers use as a background for selfies, mushy or otherwise, looms over the revelry.

It is this promise of a fun, hassle-free time in a rustic setting that gained the 40-hectare resort -- carved out of a 300-hectare coconut plantation at the border of Laguna and Quezon provinces -- its reputation as a popular destination for unwinding.

Leaving Quezon City at 7:30 a.m. on a Friday got my group of four adults, a one-year-old toddler and a three-month-old infant to the plantation at noon -- just in time for lunch at the waterfall.

After being met with a welcome drink of sago’t gulaman by a lady wearing a tapis, we went on a short ride to the lunch venue on Sexy -- though it was not clear if the name/adjective pertained to the spacious cart which looked like a jeepney without an engine, or to the robust albino buffalo pulling it, because while both looked handsome, neither was particularly alluring. The coachman said 22 dedicated buffalo take turns pulling seven carts around the park and that after each round, the load is removed from the beast, which then rests in a pool to await its next trip.

Though our ride didn’t last more than 10 minutes, entertainment was on hand -- another tapis-attired lady and her equally traditionally garbed guitarist serenaded us with familiar folk songs such as “Pipit” and “Paruparong Bukid” from the back seat of the cart. 

The all you-can-eat lunch made the day tour fee of P1,400 per adult worth paying. Grilled tilapia, vegetables cooked in coconut milk, fresh tomatoes, raw mangoes, steamed okra, peeled turnip, grilled pork belly, and steamed rice, among others, competed for attention. But what won my heart and palate was the bagoong (sautéed shrimp paste) in the clay jar which, though flavorful on its own, made other dishes it was mixed into taste even better.

As is expected at any town banquet, crowds formed at the buffet tables, but staff were on hand to keep order and help guests with everything from securing eating space to getting their drinks. The waiter who took our order of fresh coconut juice was quite the professional -- when he found out that the remaining stock of young coconuts contained less liquid than normal, he got back to us and asked if we still wanted our drinks. Waiters of a lesser calibre would have brought in the order and hoped the guests would not notice the difference. 

After the meal, we burned off the calories by walking to the venue for the cultural production that the resort stages on weekends. Regional dances, including the Singkil, Manglalatik, and Fandango sa Ilaw, were performed to live music. Perhaps the most engaging number was the Sayaw sa Banko, where two pairs of dancers performed increasingly daring stunts on narrow benches while keeping the tempo of the music. The dancers intentionally fell from time to time, prompting heckling from the other performers and eliciting laughs from the crowd.

Guests who wish to get more exercise or take a closer look at the scenery can have a go at bamboo rafting in the man-made Labasin Lake. The rafts, which can seat two people, do not come with a boatman, so those who are up for the challenge are sure to work up a sweat. 

For culture and art aficionados, the AERA Memorial Museum is a must-visit -- but be warned that it is not for the faint-hearted. Housing 300-year-old relics, old dolls, stuffed animals mounted on walls, skulls and coffins -- even a shrunken human head in a jar -- the museum is crammed with the stuff that horror stories are made of. However, there is more to the pieces than their shock value, and the place also houses items that do not necessarily induce nightmares.

Built to look like a church, the museum is a sanctuary for religious art. 

Among the attention-grabbing relics are ornate altars that tower over the ground floor, and larger-than-life images made of ivory.

A barnacled jar that is said to have been fished out of the Sea of Corinth hundreds of years before Christ stands on its own on one side of the museum. Tucked in a corner, an illustration created out of the words of the New Testament is perhaps the most popular item in the building -- the work garners quite a bit of mention on Web sites and online reviews.

On the upper floor, the weapons, armor, traditional costumes and numismatics showcase, along with the clothes that former Philippine presidents wore to their inaugurations, take guests back to different points of the country’s past.

On the grounds outside the museum, tanks, a fighter plane, and cannons that hark back to the world war serve as installation art.

The museum prohibits photo-taking, and children below the age of four are not allowed entry.

Taking the electric jeep would bring guests to the village that plantation workers call home. According to the driver of the e-Jeep we took, 70 families, all of which have one or more members working in the plantation, stay in the village.

The route passes a quaint chapel that is known for being the venue for the wedding of celebrities Lorna Tolentino and the late Rudy Fernandez. After we had a snapshot taken in front of the altar, the driver hastened to mention that Villa Escudero offers a wedding package for those who want to get married in the chapel -- and it comes with a horse-drawn carriage.

Villa Escudero also has pool facilities -- perhaps as a concession to guests who would want to take a dip after a long day of sightseeing. There are two pools for children, and two for adults, one of which has a Jacuzzi. One may want to think twice about the pool, however, during peak season. 

Sharing the pools with 1,000 other guests -- the average that the resort gets on summer weekends, according to one of the staff -- may not be the best way to spend the day at Villa Escudero.

While some elements of the Villa Escudero experience could come across as contrived -- those cement statues of rural folk and farm animals that dot the grounds and give unsuspecting guests a scare at night, for instance -- the hospitality extended by most of the staff at least seems genuine. A minor altercation with a poolside employee threatened to mar our otherwise pleasant day at the resort, but the supervisor we talked to about it handled the situation well.

A day tour is sufficient to sample what Villa Escudero has to offer, but those who wish to stay longer can book rooms in the property. According to its Web site, other activities in the resort include bird watching, cycling, and watching coconuts being harvested.

For details visit http://www.villaescudero.com.

See more at: http://www.bworldonline.com/weekender/content.php?id=87461#sthash.v4tM45MB.dpuf

Sunday, 12 January 2014

Malaysian varsity seeks more students from Brunei (The Brunei Times)

Published in the January 13, 2014 issue of The Brunei Times. Click here for original article

Malaysian varsity seeks more students from Brunei



  • The Terengganu campus of UCSI University, located in Marang, Terengganu Darul Iman. The varsity is recruiting students from Brunei and other neighbouring countries this year. BT/ Jennee Grace U Rubrico

  • The Crystal Mosque in the state of Terengganu. The Terengganu campus of UCSI University is incorporating Islamic programmes into its academic offerings in light of its demand for the courses. BT/ Jennee Grace U Rubrico

  • Mohd Suhaimi Shamsuddin, chief operating officer of the Terengganu campus of UCSI University, speaks to ‘The Brunei Times’ in his office. BT/ Jennee Grace U Rubrico
Monday, January 13, 2014

THE Terengganu campus of Malaysian varsity UCSI University is recruiting students from Brunei and other neighbouring countries to beef up its enrolment, as it adds more Islamic modules and programmes into its range of academic offerings.

UCSI Terengganu Chief Operating Officer Mohd Suhaimi Shamsuddin (picture) said in a recent interview that the campus, which currently has 200 students, is working on getting more enrollees from neighbouring markets after already penetrating the Arabic countries and China.

Currently, 25 per cent of its students come from the Arab countries while 18 per cent are from China, Mohd Suhaimi said. Around five per cent are from Maldives and Sri Lanka, while the rest are from the ASEAN states, he added.

“Our focus countries for 2014 are India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, the Philippines, Brunei and Papua New Guinea,” he said.

The next intake of the campus is in May, during which it hopes to get 40 new entrants.

The campus has a tie-up with UCSI Kuala Lumpur for its Medical programme, wherein Malaysian medical students earn part of their credits in the Terengganu campus.

UCSI Terengganu also has programmes on Education, and Oil and Gas Management, which the official said is a monopoly of the campus.

“We offer both BBA and MBA for Oil and Gas Management... In ASEAN, only this campus offers the programme,” he said.

The campus is working on a fourth programme, on Islamic Banking and Finance, Mohd Suhaimi said.
“Currently we have eight students (taking it up). We need two more for it to be launched as a programme,” he said.

The move to offer the Islamic finance programme, he said, stems from the location of the campus as well as the global clamour for more conservative banking practices.

Noting that the campus is hosted by an Islamic state – around 97 per cent of Terengganu’s one million-strong population are Muslims — he said the UCSI Group has decided to incorporate Islamic course offerings into the programmes of the Terengganu varsity.

“The east coast of Malaysia is synonymous to Islam. We offer Finance in the Kuala Lumpur campus, but we took Islamic Banking and Finance and placed it in Terengganu,” he said.

Meanwhile, shifts in the global economy also precipitate the need for more Islamic finance offerings, he added.

“The economy is different now because of 2008,” when the global banking industry went into a crisis due to unmanageable sub-prime loans. “Everybody is searching for Islamic banking and finance,” he said.

The campus is also integrating an Islamic module into its early childhood development offering, Mohd Suhaimi said.

Other initiatives in the offing include potential collaboration with international universities that would allow students to earn some of their credits in the campus before proceeding to partner universities elsewhere and vice-versa.

"We are looking to collaborate with other universities and institutions to minimise expenses for the students. We (should) have the same syllabus, so students can do two years here and one year in the partner institution, and vice-versa," he said.

The campus, Mohd Suhaimi said, accommodates students of all faiths, as evidenced by the fact that Christians, Buddhists and Hindus together make up half of its populace.

Wednesday, 13 November 2013

Brunei energy demand to fall: ADB (The Brunei Times)

Published in the Nov 13 issue of The Brunei Times. Click here for original story

Brunei energy demand to fall: ADB

Wednesday, November 13, 2013
BRUNEI’S demand for crude energy is expected to go down by 2035 as the country uses more efficient power generators, a report from the Asian Development Bank (ADB) said.
The country report, contained in the ADB’s latest Energy Outlook and published last month, said that Brunei’s primary energy demand will decrease to 3.08 metric tonnes of oil equivalent (Mtoe) by 2035 from 3.16 Mtoe in 2010, at an annual rate of 0.1 per cent.
Primary energy consumption is the direct use, without transformation, of crude energy.
“The country’s per capita energy demand will drop to 5.64 Toe (tonnes of oil equivalent) per person, compared with 7.92 Toe in 2010,” ADB added.
ADB said that this assumes that renewable energy will continue to contribute a small share of the total energy mix of the country, at 2.3 per cent by 2035.
It also assumes that gas and oil, which will have a share of 67.9 per cent and 29.8 per cent respectively in 2035 from 76.1 per cent and 23.9 per cent respectively in 2010, will continue to dominate the energy mix, the bank added.
The report said that in an alternative scenario, which factors in the deployment of advanced technologies that allow energy savings, Brunei’s primary energy consumption will register a bigger drop.
According to ADB, under this scenario, Brunei’s primary energy consumption will drop 0.6 per cent a year to 2.74 Mtoe by 2035, 0.34 Mtoe lower than the normal, business-as-usual scenario.
This scenario assumes that renewable energy would account for a bigger share in the primary energy demand, at 5.7 per cent by 2035.
The power sector will account for the biggest potential energy savings, at 0.18 Mtoe by 2035.
ADB attributed this to energy conservation measures that would push users to reduce demand for the commodity and the use of more efficient power plants, ADB said.
“Progress in energy conservation in the industry, residential and commercial sectors will reduce electricity demand, and thus the needed fuel input for the power plants,” it said.
“In the alternative case, Brunei Darussalam’s electricity generation in 2035 will be 3.40 TWh (terawatt-hours), 15 per cent lower than in the (business as usual) case. The efficiency improvement achieved through the development of gas-fired combined-cycle power plants will also contribute to the energy savings in the power sector,” it said.
Transport will also save 0.07 Mtoe in energy as the country shifts towards more efficient hybrid and electric vehicles, the report added.
The bank noted potential energy savings of 0.05 Mtoe from the residential and commercial users, and 0.04 Mtoe for industries.
“The residential and commercial sectors’ energy savings are mainly a result of electricity savings from the deployment of efficient appliances. The major appliances that contribute to the energy savings are air conditioners and lighting in the residential sector, and cooling in the commercial sector,” ADB said.
“The industry sector’s savings will be achieved by the deployment of advanced technologies in the various industry subsectors, especially in the efficient improvement in the oil refining and chemical industry,” it added.
Final energy demand, however, will continue to rise by 1.3 per cent annually during the period, the report said.
Final energy demand is the total energy used by end users, such as households, industry and agriculture, excluding what is consumed by the energy sector.
Final energy demand for non-energy use will get the biggest share of the total as Brunei develops its chemical industry, ADB said.
This will grow by 2.7 per cent per year, with its share in the final energy consumption pie rising to 28.9 per cent in 2035 from from 20.4 per cent in 2010, the report said.
The industry sector will see a 1.4 per cent growth in final energy demand, with its share of the total increasing slightly to to 19.5 per cent in 2035 from 19.2 per cent in 2010 , the report said.
“The development in the industry sector, especially the chemical manufacturing subsector, will likely raise Brunei Darussalam’s overall energy intensity, greenhouse gas emissions, and domestic energy demand due to significant own-use or energy in these industrial processes,” the bank said.
The rise in transport’s final energy consumption will be contained at 0.8 per cent per year, with its share reduced to 30.7 per cent in 2035 from 34.6 per cent in 2010.
Other sectors including residential, commercial, agriculture and fishery will register an annual growth of 0.5 per cent, but their share will fall to 20.9 per cent in 2035 from 25.8 per cent in 2010.
ADB said that over the outlook period, Brunei is seen to continue to be heavily dependent on energy exports to support its economy.
“A heavy dependence on exports means that the country’s economic development is vulnerable to fluctuations in the flobal market. Declining production is also impairing Brunei Darussalan’s capacity to deal with the risks,” the bank added.
The ADB’s energy demand forecast projects that Brunei’s economy would grow at annual rate of 1.7 per cent, to US$10.45 billion by 2035, 52.1 per cent higher than the GDP in 2010.
with Al-Haadi Abu Bakar
The Brunei Times

Friday, 25 October 2013

Fewer women in top gov't posts, shorter life span push Brunei down in gender gap ladder (The Brunei Times)

Fewer women in top gov't posts, shorter life span push Brunei down in gender gap ladder

Saturday, October 26, 2013

THE dearth of females in top government positions and a smaller gap in the life spans of its men and women accounted for Brunei’s low regional ranking in the World Economic Forum’s latest report on gender disparity.
Data culled by The Brunei Times from the Global Gender Gap Index 2013 show that the Sultanate was placed sixth among nine states of the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN), after the Philippines, Singapore, Laos, Thailand and Vietnam.
The Sultanate, however, ranked higher than Indonesia, Malaysia and Cambodia.
Myanmar was not included in the global study of 136 countries.
The report looks at disparity between men and women in 136 countries based on four categories: Economic participation and opportunity, educational attainment, health and survival and political empowerment.
Brunei was dragged down by the political empowerment index, where it ranked last globally.
The category factors in women in ministerial positions, in which Brunei ranked 125th; the years during which it had a female head of state (60th); and women in parliament (no rank).
“It is one of two countries from the region with a score of zero on the political empowerment index,” along with Qatar, the WEF said.
The Philippines, which ranked fifth globally and was ASEAN’s top placer in gender equality, is 10th in political empowerment.
Laos ranked 73rd, Indonesia 75th, Vietnam, 80th, Thailand, 89th, and Singapore, 90th.
Cambodia, at 96th, and Malaysia, at 121st, joined Brunei in the regional bottom three.
For the health and survival index, which measures the differences between women’s and men’s health, Brunei ranked second to the lowest in the region, at 109th, higher only than Vietnam’s 132nd.
While the Sultanate ranked first in sex ratio at birth between females and males, it ranked 117th for healthy life expectancy for women.
Brunei was placed third in the region for educational attainment of women (76th globally), after the Philippines (first) and Malaysia (73).
For economic participation and opportunities for women, the Sultanate places fourth in the region, at 33rd globally.
It trails Laos, at 8th place, Singapore at 12th and the Philippines at 16th.
Overall, Brunei ranked 88th in the Global Gender Gap Index, falling 13 notches from last year’s 75th place.
The Brunei Times

Tuesday, 1 October 2013

9 in 10 cigarettes in Brunei 'illicit' (Brunei Times)

9 in 10 cigarettes in Brunei 'illicit'

Wednesday, October 2, 2013
Country tops 10 Asian marts on ratio of illegal tobacco use

TIGHTER regulations imposed on tobacco products and lack of access have opened up the illicit market for cigarettes in the sultanate, with nine in 10 cigarettes consumed in the country sourced unlawfully.

A study of 11 Asian markets conducted by the International Tax and Investment Centre and Oxford Economics and released two days ago reported that 89.8 per cent of the cigarettes consumed in Brunei last year were sourced illicitly, with only 10.3 per cent bought through legal means.

This makes Brunei the economy with the highest incident of illicit cigarette consumption, when measured as a percentage of total usage, among the 11 markets covered by the 'Asia-11 Illicit Tobacco Indicator 2012'.

"Excise tax was substantially increased in November 2010, from $60 per kg to $250/1,000 (by 339 per cent), and more stringent requirements were introduced for retail licences. The resulting large fall in the number of retailers made it difficult for consumers to access legal duty-paid cigarettes," the study said.

Charts from Oxford Economics show that after the excise tax was imposed in November 2010, legal domestic sales volumes of cigarettes fell drastically from over 350 million sticks in 2009, to around 300 million in 2010.

By 2011, the number of cigarettes legally bought domestically fell to a little over 50 million, and by 2012, it was down to 36 million.

The study, however, estimates that in 2012, a total of 351 million cigarettes were consumed, indicating that 315 million of these were sourced illicitly.

The study based its estimates on the average of the Empty Pack Surveys from 2011 and 2013.

"The Empty Pack Survey reveals some inflows into Brunei of duty-free cigarettes and duty-paid cigarettes from Malaysia and Indonesia," the study said.

"Most non-domestic cigarettes are designated as 'unspecified' but are likely to come from neighbouringcountries."

A bottom-up estimate of total consumption using smoking prevalence, average cigarette consumption, and population corroborates the figures, suggesting "an illicit share of around 87 per cent", the study added.

The decision of foreign tobacco makers to leave the country also contributed to the collapse of the legal domestic market in Brunei, the study said.

"Brunei's legal domestic sales ... collapsed after a series of radical regulatory and fiscal measures caused international tobacco manufacturers to exit the market," it said.

"The collapse of the legal market after the exit of international tobacco manufacturers left the market served largely by illicit imports."

The study estimates that the government lost $79 million in taxes from the illicit consumption of cigarettes last year.

The study, which was funded by Philip Morris Asia, also looked into the cigarette consumption of Indonesia, Thailand, the Philippines, Australia, Taiwan, Vietnam, Singapore, Pakistan, Malaysia and Hong Kong.

Hong Kong trails Brunei in the list as the market with the second highest percentage of illicit use, at about 35.9 per cent of the total domestic consumption. It is followed by Malaysia, with 34.5 per cent, and Pakistan at 25.4 per cent.

The 11 markets covered by the report consumed an estimated 736.4 billion cigarettes in 2012, of which nine per cent or 66.5 billion are estimated to have been sourced illicitly.

The Brunei Times

Friday, 5 July 2013

Housing ownership curbs protect Brunei real estate market (The Brunei Times)

This came out on the July 6, 2013 issue of The Brunei Times. Click here for original story

Housing ownership curbs protect Brunei real estate market



In Brunei, the housing market is still largely a domestic play and the rise and fall of interest rates does not change demand as quickly or dramatically as in other markets in Asia. Picture: BT file

Saturday, July 6, 2013

THE move to limit ownership of residential property to locals caps foreign investments in the segment but also protects Brunei from fluctuations in the real estate market, a property expert said.

In an email interview with The Brunei Times recently, Dr Chua Yang Liang, head of research for Southeast Asia at global property consultancy firm Jones Lang LaSalle, said that the Sultanate's housing market was "relatively stable" because of limitations set by the government.

Under the law, only Bruneians can own landed property in the country. Foreigners and permanent residents can only hold properties under strata titles or long-term leasehold rights. Last month, most banks stopped granting housing loan applications from permanent residents and foreigners to reflect the edict.

"While the long-term lease structure has effectively made the housing market available to foreigners, nevertheless, it is still fairly limited and has capped the level of investment in the domestic housing market," Chua said.

"Equally, this has benefited the domestic market as it does not have that destabilising effect that speculation brings as can be seen by the number of anti-speculation policies that governments in Hong Kong, China and Singapore have put in place to cool down their housing markets," she added.

Speculation is the practice of engaging in financial transactions and turning around to profit from fluctuations in the market value of the products.

Chua noted that the Brunei property market "is generally less transparent compared to other mature Asian countries such as Hong Kong or Singapore".

"However, it is also ...not overly affected by the effect of hot money floating around in Asia," she said, referring to money that flows quickly out of markets that give little returns into those offering the highest yields.

Chua also said that because the residential real estate market in the country was driven largely by people buying homes for their own use rather than as investments, changes in interest rates for housing loans are not likely to have an immediate and direct impact on demand.

The Autoriti Monetari Brunei Darussalam (AMBD) in March imposed a maximum effective interest rate or annualised profit rate of not more than 4.5 per cent per annum on housing loans, as part of efforts to enhance the financial infrastructure and inculcate sound financial management among debtors.

"In Brunei, as the housing market is still largely a domestic play, the rise and fall of interest rates may not change demand as quickly or dramatically as you expect unlike other markets in Asia. Investment demand (here) is fairly limited."

Data from the International Monetary Fund (IMF) which were sourced from the Department of Economic Planning and Development show no foreign direct investments coming in for real estate, renting and business activity in 2011. In 2009 and 2010, the sector saw $3 million in foreign direct investments per year, while in 2007 and 2008, it logged $2 million in foreign direct investments per year.

Chua, however, said that while there was little interest among regional developers to enter Brunei's residential real estate market, "if domestic demand in Brunei was to enjoy a sustained rise, then this might arouse interest among domestic developers".

Reflecting strong demand for housing, mortgage has the second biggest share in the loan portfolios of commercial banks in the country, after personal loans. The latest data from the central bank which are cited by the IMF show that mortgage totalling $1.326 billion accounted for 26 per cent of the $5.09 billion in loans extended by commercial banks in 2011.

The share of mortgage in the banks' loan portfolios has been increasing over the past three years, from 18.6 per cent in 2009 and 23.6 per cent in 2010, data show. As of the third quarter of 2012, mortgage made up 27.1 per cent of the total loans extended by commercial banks. The Brunei Times

Langkawi: Eagle's eyrie

published on the July 5, 2013 issue of BusinessWorld. Click here for the original story
Focus
Posted on 06:11 PM, July 04, 2013

Text and Photos by Jennee Grace U. Rubrico

Langkawi: Eagle's eyrie




The eagles swoop down, curious about the fish that the water taxi captain offers to them. Their hunger has long been satisfied, having already participated in this spectacle a few times prior to our arrival. Yet the russet colored predators that are smaller than their western cousins continue to survey the area -- gliding, taking turns diving, then taking back to the skies, some to look back below, others to deposit their loot at the eyries that tower over the nearby islet.
The feeding is more for the pleasure of the humans who crane their necks from inside the boat to get a better view, cameras of varying sizes fixtures on their faces, to snap photos of the birds. Engineered to hunt with their talons, sharp vision, and beaks, the birds of prey need no assistance to feed. That so many of them condescend to show up in full avian splendour to play to the audience is a surprising but deeply appreciated gift from the kings of the sky -- after whom the Malaysian paradise of Langkawi is named.

An archipelago of 99 islands off the state of Kedah in Malaysia, Langkawi has harnessed its untamed beauty to gain a chunk of the tourism sector without giving too much of itself away.

The island grouping follows its own weather, preferring to splash a dose of sunlight during traditionally cold months when the capital city of Kuala Lumpur, which is less than an hour away by plane, hosts somber skies.

"In Langkawi, it’s sunny from December to March," the taxi driver that ferries us out of the airport and to our hotel says.

The island has everything that sun worshippers and beach bums dream of: sandy shores bordering emerald seas that sparkle under the sun.

Be it in the tourist-filled town of Pantai Cenang on the main island, or the many islets of the archipelago, beaches in Langkawi are within easy reach.





BEACHES AND A HIDDEN LAKE
A half-day tour around the islands gives visitors a glimpse of the archipelago’s natural treasures for as low as RM30 (around P450). Besides communing with the eagles on the waters of Pulau Singa Besar (Big Lion Island), the tour includes a swim at the white beaches of Pulau Beras Basah (Wet Rice Island).

A thick forest hides the rest of the uninhabited island from adventure seekers, and there is not much on the island by way of facilities beyond some tables, a water pump to wash off the seawater after a swim, a store to buy snacks or the all-important bottled water from, and a toilet of unknown character.

But Pulau Beras Basah’s cool, clear waters prove irresistible on a stifling December day. The water’s gentle slope make it safe for people of all ages, and swimmers and snorkelers are rewarded with glimpses of the island’s biodiversity as schools of fish swim by. Sea urchins, though, may provide a bit of a sting to an otherwise pleasant experience.

Stronger swimmers can look forward to a vigorous workout at another stop, the Lake of the Pregnant Maiden, which lies in the island of the same name (Pulau Dayang Bunting). The freshwater lake that is separated from the ocean by a narrow wall of rocks is extremely deep, and the only way to keep afloat after plunging -- yes plunging -- into it from a platform is to tread water. Life jackets and buoys are available for rent, as are jet skis.

Those who prefer to remain dry will not regret trudging from the dock to the lake -- and possibly tussling with monkeys over a container of food -- for the view. With the high verdant walls isolating the lake, the place could be a lost world. Mermaids could live here, as could dinosaurs or the Loch Ness monster.

One would think that a lake this huge would have warnings about crocodiles or water snakes. Otters, however, seem infinitely more alarming, as a placard tells visitors to watch out for their bite.

There is power emanating from the island, so named because from afar it looks like a pregnant woman lying on her back. Legend has it that this is a maiden who buried her dead child beside the lake. If one is to believe the tales, barren women would conceive after taking a dip.





The journey to the mystical islands of Langkawi begins and ends on the wharf made picturesque by white birds dotting the blue skies and yachts doing the same to the similarly hued sea. Bookings for the tour can be done everywhere -- from the lobbies of the hotels, to the cab drivers that ply Langkawi’s circumferential road, to the roadside tour operator.

Upscale versions of the tour are also available for those who want privacy or want to experience Langkawi’s sunset in a Jacuzzi aboard a yacht.

DINING AND SHOPPING
The sea is also instrumental in Langkawi’s gustatory offerings. In the low-key town of Kuah, visitors are spoiled for choice at Trimula, a cluster of restaurants along Jln Persiaran Mutiara. Crabs and prawns that are housed in tanks at the restaurants before they are cooked are the best introduction a visitor could have to Langkawi. Pork and alcohol, both haram (prohibited) to Muslims, are also served in the area.

In Pantai Cenang, the Beach Garden Restaurant offers gourmet food right on the beach. Meals can be pricey, but the huge basket of home-baked bread that comes with the breakfast is worth the money.

Kuah, the commercial face of duty-free Langkawi, is also best place to shop. The town has everything anyone could think of buying -- kitchenware and houseware, plush toys, branded goods and imitation items. Among the shop houses, the best known general merchandise stores are owned by the Haji Ismail Group. The stores, which are sprinkled all over Kuah and are sometimes just a few meters apart from each other, are said to offer the best prices for alcohol, chocolates, houseware and kitchenware.

For resort wear and souvenir shirts, general goods stores and roadside boutiques are the best options. Langkawi Saga sells batik dresses and "I love Langkawi" tees for as low as RM15. Beside Bayview Hotel, a shopping center called Plaza Langkawi sells a wide array of cool cotton clothes. The prices of the items fall as one goes deeper into the shopping area, so shoppers would do well to hold off purchasing until prices are to their liking.

Flea markets tucked in back streets also sell souvenir shirts and resort clothes, but the prices are padded. There is room to haggle in flea markets, though not much to try on the items.

For branded sportswear, Al Ikhsan is the best bet. The sporting goods store sells a range of original sporting goods from shoes to swimwear at cutthroat prices, especially during clearance sales. Just outside its doors are rows of roadside shops that sell imitation goods, providing a contrast that works in the favor of the all-original fashion chain.

Langkawi also has a proliferation of spas. Belli’s, which operates around Kuah, offers a range of relaxation treatments that work like magic after a full day of shopping or sightseeing without necessarily piercing a hole through pockets. A two-and-a-half hour treatment that includes foot reflexology, a full body massage, and a body scrub sets one back by RM138 -- perhaps too steep a price to pay for a good night’s sleep, or not.

Getting around the main island is a breeze -- taxis, the bane of Malaysia, are better organized in Langkawi, with stops located a few steps away from any shopping mall or hotel and official tariffs posted in public to avoid overcharging. Those who prefer to drive can also rent a car right after stepping out of the plane -- at the airport, a number of car rental companies have booths that tourists can approach for their temporary ride. Walking is also an option, as accommodations in Kuah are right in the heart of the shopping district, and roadside shops in Pantai Cenang are right outside the hotels.

Langkawi is also called the Pearl of Keddah, perhaps for its beauty and for being the treasure trove of good finds that it is. But more than a gem birthed from the marriage of sand and oyster’s saliva, the archipelago is embodied by the eagles from which it owes its name: compact and powerful, naturally fascinating, sometimes predatory, always a sight to behold.