A quick introduction to Malaysia through Muzium Negara (BusinessWorld)

Published in the August 05, 2010 issue of BusinessWorld
TEXT and PHOTOS BY JENNEE GRACE U. RUBRICO

A quick introduction to Malaysia through Muzium Negara

I surveyed what must have been the fifth log coffin that I saw in the span of two hours. It was closed, and in the glass case. It really just looked like a log that was cut in half and hollowed out.

A TRADITIONAL vessel

What made it eerie was the burial drum beside it, so identified by the text written on a stand outside the glass case, and a reconstructed burial site. It didn’t help that skeletons of prehistoric men, said to have been found in different parts of Malaysia, were lined up in open graves just behind these, or that burial jars -- one of them broken at the bottom with a skeletal hand protruding from the gap -- were in the next glass casket.
In another building at the compound, I had earlier seen similar coffins -- smaller ones that looked like wooden containers with fancy lids -- as well as a chair for dead women which, I was surprised to find out, is an invention of the folks of Kalinga in northern Philippines. The chair, made of rattan, stood in front of a poster that not only explained how the chair was used but also had an illustration of the process. (I was quite taken aback that I would come to know about this burial practice overseas, but I consoled myself with the fact that I come from the southernmost part of the country, which, of course, is no excuse for my ignorance).

A
 wedding banquet tableau

Muzium Negara is a must-visit for tourists who want to get a snapshot of Malaysia’s old culture and young political history

Also that morning, I had seen tomb markers made of batu Aceh, a type of gravestone which were said to have been carved by Acehnese between the 15^th and 19^th centuries. The tombstones, a note beside them stated, "deserve to be regarded as a prominent heritage of Malay civilization."
I felt my stomach turn after spending the better part of the morning looking at death and the dead. Luckily, I hadn’t had time for breakfast that day.
My nauseous state, however, was no indication of the kind of day I was having; despite feeling that I had seen more than enough representations of death for the short term, I was enjoying my visit to Malaysia’s national museum, the Muzium Negara.

A dining room

Located in the capital city of Kuala Lumpur, the national museum opened on Aug. 31, 1963. It stands on the grounds of what used to be the Selangor Museum, built in 1906. The right wing of that museum was bombed by the Allied Forces in 1945, and after World War II the entire place was demolished to make way for a new museum.
Designed by Ho Kok Hoe, the national museum is said to be inspired by "the Malay royal palaces and vernacular Malay architecture." Probably the first thing that would grab the visitor’s attention is a mural made of Italian glass mosaic on the faéade of the building. The museum explains that the mural depicts important historical events and crafts in Malaysia.
The museum is a must-visit for tourists who want to get a snapshot of Malaysia’s old culture and young political history. It houses four galleries, the first of which showcases Malaysia’s early history, covering the Permian, prehistory and proto-history eras. In this section, the finds in prehistoric archeological sites in Malaysia are showcased, and replicas of the finds -- including Perak Man, a 10,000 year old skeleton and Malaysia’s oldest inhabitant -- are displayed. Also on display are the burial jars and other remains of death; moulds of skulls of ancient men and their ancestors, soil samples, and prehistoric tools. A highlight in this section is a cave with a transparent LCD that depicts the life of prehistoric people.

The Malaysian version of sungka

Across from this gallery is the Malay Kingdoms section. Covered in this gallery are early trade routes; the early Malay Kingdoms; a section on Malacca, the center of the spice trade and the cradle of Malaysian civilization; and the contemporary Malay kingdoms. The imposing wall and 120-year-old door of the palace of the Malay state of Setul, which was ruled by the Sultanate of Kedah from 1843 to its cessation to Thailand in 1909, welcome visitors in this section. The wall and door are made of teak and carved with leaves and flowers -the symbol of the state.
On the second floor are two more galleries: the Colonial Era gallery and the modern Malaysia gallery.

Burial jars

The Colonial Era Gallery gives visitors a glimpse of Malaysia’s 446 years of foreign rule following the fall of the Malaccan Empire in 1511. The influence of four different colonizers -- the Portuguese, the Dutch, the British and the Japanese -- are tackled in this section. A model of the A Famosa fortress, which is found in Malacca, as well as a scale model of the Portuguese ship Flor De La Mar are found in this section. Also on display are various types of kris (a sword), body armor, shields, and the bunga mas, or the gold flower, which the Malay sultanates used to give to the Kingdom of Siam as a symbol of friendship.
The most politically charged gallery is the "Malaysia Today" section, which chronicles the country’s move towards independence from British rule. The unification of the Malays, Chinese and Indian locals in Malaysia against foreign rule and the leadership of Tunku Abdul Rahman, the country’s first prime minister, in attaining self-rule are the themes of this section.
Highlighted are the importance of Islam and education, as well as the role played by the press, in the move towards independence. A video presentation on Merdeka (independence) betrays the national stance that Malays are superior over their Chinese and Tamil counterparts -- in the film, an old man explains to his grandchildren that the Malaysian fight for independence was the Malays’ under Tunku Abdul Rahman, with the help of "Chinese and Indian friends."

A coffin with a decorated lid

The section also has a wall dedicated to highlighting the country’s achievements over the past 50 years. Coming from a century-old country that still struggles with poverty, massive brain drain and a lackluster economy, I could only be amazed at how fast Malaysia, which is just about half as old as the Philippines, has propelled itself to progress.
Besides the Muzium Negara, other galleries that complement its collection are housed in the compound. The Malay World Gallery, which showcases the other prehistoric coffins and the death chair of the Kalinga, also tackles wedding traditions and the different techniques used in batik making.
A house made of cengcal wood, called Istana Satu, which follows Trengganu Malay architecture, gives visitors a glimpse of the layout of old Malay houses, which is quite similar to old houses in the Philippines -- down to the banig (woven mat) and the sungka (a game) board.
Also on display at the museum grounds are different types of rick-shaws from different Malaysian states, and the first Proton car.
MUZIUM NEGARA is open from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. For an entrance fee of RM2 (around P30), visitors gain access to the four galleries of the museum. The other galleries can be accessed for free.

Riding High in Malaysia (BusinessWorld)

Published in the April 08, 2010 issue of BusinessWorld

BY JENNEE GRACE U. RUBRICO

Riding high in Malaysia

In a mountain in Malaysia, approximately an hour away from the capital state of Kuala Lumpur, is ensconced an integrated resort that caters to people of all ages. Rising 2,000 meters above sea level, Genting Highlands, at the outskirts of the state of Selangor, is a favorite destination for tourists and locals.

Photo By Jonathan Mark U. Rubrico

For good reason -- the resort looks like it’s been carved out of a forest. It is surrounded on all sides by lush vegetation, and because of its elevation, guests almost literally ride high on the clouds. The nippy weather is also a relief from the tropical heat of Malaysia, earning the resort a reputation of being a honeymoon place.
Perhaps another reason for Genting’s popularity is that it offers all kinds of exhilaration and entertainment in one destination. To get to the resort, one must take the Genting Skyway, a 20-minute cable car ride -- which is not as easy as it sounds, particularly when one reaches a point that is so steep, the cable car in front is no longer within the line of sight. At this point, the only view ahead is the mountain wall, looking massive, hard -- and quite capable of smashing a cable car to smithereens. And if it is particularly quiet, one can hear the creaking of the wires on which the car is suspended as it navigates the sharp angle.
Genting is also popular for its casino, being the only licensed gaming operation in the moderate Islamic country. Also tucked in crannies are bars and discos, rarities in the country where alcohol drinking and excessive show of skin are prohibited for Muslims.
For those who seek more wholesome activities, a different kind of thrill is offered by the resort -- the indoor and outdoor theme park, where the rides take center stage. The rides -- which are divided into children’s, family, and thrill rides -- range from child’s play to the night-marish.
The merry-go-round, located on the left side of the entrance, could be the most boring carousel that I’ve ever tried -- it went for two rounds, and my camel didn’t even gallop. On the same side of the spectrum excitement-wise side is the Crazy Space Lab, which showed a movie about aliens that didn’t really have a storyline. The movie felt like it was just an excuse to shake people around and cause them to vomit.
The Rolling Thunder Mine Train was much better, being a mini-roller coaster with no loops but with a sudden drop. Adding to its sense of danger is the fact that a portion of its tracks -- where the drop is executed -- hugs a "cliff."
Other benign rides include the Antique Car, bumper boats, the mini train and the monorail (though given its age and state of dilapidation, it might not be so benign after all).
The park also hosts moderately thrilling rides like the Spinner (a ride that has swing seats that are flung around following a rotating motion), Pirate Ship (the ship swings to and fro) and the Flying Dragon, (a roller coaster that follows a narrow track suspended high above the park). The Sungai Rejang flume ride has a much shorter drop than Enchanted Kingdom’s Log Jam (not to mention Ocean Park’s version), but splashes the riders just the same. Genting claims that among its most popular rides are the ones that churn one’s guts the most. The Flying Coaster is a flight simulator that places people in pods and scrambles them (like the eggs) while following a track similar to a roller coaster’s. Both revolving and forward motions are done in fast forward -- to no one’s surprise, everyone who comes down from the ride looks like he’s gone through a blender.
Also among the highly rated rides are the Corkscrew, a roller coaster with a couple of drops and a section that turns the car upside down; the Space Shot (a tube drop); Euro Express (a high-speed elevated roller coaster); and the Cyclone, Malaysia’s first roller coaster which has a single car and out-of-the-body experience-inducing drops.
The best ride I took was the Grand Prix Fun Kart, which in this theme park doesn’t require a separate entrance fee but has a minimum height re-quirement. After waiting 40 minutes to get on one of the karts, I almost didn’t make it -- the people super-vising the ride would not believe that I cleared the height requirement and measured me again, peeking at my feet to make sure I wasn’t standing on tiptoes.
The Super Toboggan, another interesting ride which runs on the principle of potential and kinetic energy (the car is pulled up, and is released when it reaches the peak so that gravity takes over as it coasts to the finish line), has a weight limit of 70kg.
Like other theme parks, Genting’s outdoor park also has activities in different locations. They are announced on posters, but these are not of much help, as they do not indicate the time or the venue for such activities. Don’t bother asking the lady at the ticket booth either -- you’ll only get answers like, "I don’t know," or, "I’ve no idea." At least those were the answers we got, when we asked where the Merdeka Parade was going to be held.
But missing these shows is not such a big deal. There are other offerings that can make one forget the sorry state of Malaysia’s service industry. Beryl’s Chocolate World, for instance, is a chocolate museum with a lot of photo opportunities for kids. One also gets to sample, and buy, Beryl’s Chocolates -- a Malaysian brand -- inside. Try the Tiramisu line, there’s a good reason they’re the best sellers.
Another highlight is the Ripley’s Believe It or Not! Museum, located in the indoor theme park. The museum, which requires a separate entrance fee (RM18, around P250), has a collection of mostly quirky, always interesting pieces. Just before going in, a glass case containing six orbs that are said to be dinosaur eggs can be seen, while greeting guests by the entrance are a pair of African fertility statues believed to have caused the pregnancy of dozens of women who touched them.
For those who fear the ladies and gentlemen from Transylvania but need to go out at night, the museum has on display a vampire killing kit, containing: holy water, an ivory crucifix, a gun, silver bullets, garlic and a wooden stake.
Meanwhile, those who fancy driving a gold car can try their luck with the gold coin-covered Austin Mini, also showcased at the museum.
Also in the museum are a totem pole from Alaska; a mummified cat from Egypt; a camera that doubles as a flask which was used to stash away liquor when it was banned in the US,; a replica of St. Basil’s Cathedral in Moscow, made from matchsticks; and the hood worn by murderer Charles Birger when he was executed by hanging.
A chastity belt; a torture chair; Tibetan daggers that drive away evil spirits; stuffed mutated animals; a mold of the head of a man who had two pupils each in his eyes; a life-size wax statue of Robert Wadlow, the world’s tallest man; and several other interesting pieces are also part of the collection.
To get the most out of the museum visit, it is advisable to allocate at least an hour for it, though the people manning it say that it would only take 30 minutes to go through the collection.
Another attraction in Genting is Snowworld, a room that simulates winter. This also requires a separate entrance fee, and cameras are prohibited -- photos can only be taken by official photographers and can be bought on the way out.
For those who are up to it, there are three camera-loving pythons in the complex that are just waiting to have their photos taken with guests. They have handlers, of course -- and being camwhores notwithstanding, they require a talent fee for the privilege of having them draped on guests’ shoulders. Those who want to be star struck, meanwhile, can visit the Arena of Stars, a hall that offers a wide range of concerts staged by international superstars.
Perhaps the best thing about Genting is its spectacular sunset. Riding back to the foot of the mountain in a cable car at 7:30 p.m., we saw the red sun bidding good night to the purple sky: it was a breathtaking view that would make any acrophobic person forget his fear of heights.
Then, as darkness started to enshroud the skies, we heard the creak of the cables, reminding us of the steep drop ahead. It was time to close my eyes and distract myself by reminiscing about the action-packed day in Malaysia’s elevated resort, the ultimate leisure park for kids of all ages.
Genting is accessible by cable car from Gombak. Buses to Gombak can be taken from KL Sentral, where Genting packages are also being sold. For RM35 (RM39 during holidays), the package covers bus transport to and from Gombak, the cable car rides to and from the integrated resort,two vouchers, and access to the outdoor theme park or a buffet lunch. Hotels are strategically located in and around the resort, for those who want to stay a night or two to try out everything that Genting has to offer.